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My office area was in desperate need of a makeover. Like DESPERATE need. The floor was covered with boxes of diapers and wipes, random toys from the playroom, leftover raisins from snack time, and a broken lamp. One of the girls knocked over my lamp and the plastic lamp shade broke into pieces all over the floor. Do you ever just look at something and pretend it’s not there? That’s exactly what I did with the disaster that was taking place in our office.
I came across this desk on Pinterest and instantly fell in love. I modified the plans a little just to give it my own personal touch. Here’s my own tutorial on how I built this farmhouse style desk!
5 – 2×4 @ 8 feet long
1 – 1×4 @ 8 feet long
2 – 2×12 @ 6 feet long (I used Plywood instead!)
I don’t give cut lists as I’ve found it’s easier to make the cuts as you go (especially when you’re working with construction lumber). Sometimes the wood has a little bend or twist in it which could throw off the measurement.
LETS GET THIS PARTY STARTED!
Start by building the legs of the desk. Using your miter saw, cut (4) 2×4’s at 20 inches long. Cut four 1X4’s at 18inches long.
Center your 2X4 in the center of each 1X4 as shown in the picture. Attach the 1X4 using 2 1/2in wood screws. Countersink the screws so that they are slightly below the surface of the wood. You may need a countersink bit for this part, however I was able to sink the screws using my 18V drill and my huge muscles.
Do the same for the other leg. When you are finished, your legs should look like this picture above.
Take a deep breath and a swig of your coffee (or wine!). You’ll need to be patient for this next step. Especially if you’ve never made angled cuts before. I’m going to walk you through this with several pictures so you can see what I’m blabbing on and on about.
You will be using your 2X4’s for this part. Cut a 45 degree angle on one 2X4.
Take the piece of wood and line up the angle you just cut so that it’s flush with the top of the 1X4 as shown in the picture above. Take a pencil and mark a line where the other end meets the 2X4.
You should have something that resembles this.
Make another 45 degree angled cut but give yourself plenty of room. You can seen in the picture that my blade is not directly over my pencil mark. I have found that you can always shave a little more off at a time until it fits nice and snug. If you cut it too short, you’ll have to start over with another piece of wood.
Once you have all 4 cuts made, attach them with wood glue and a brad nailer. If you don’t have a nail gun, you can just use wood glue for this step.
Do the same steps for the other leg.
WOO! The hardest part is over!
Now add the 2X4 bracing. They should measure 21in longest part to longest part. Miter off the ends at 45 degrees as shown in the picture. Using glue and 2in wood screws, countersink the braces to the 1X4.
Then add the top and the bottom. Cut two (2X4) boards at 21in long. Attached them with glue and countersink with 2 1/2in wood screws.
Make four 3 1/2in cuts to your 1X4 board. These will be the footpads. Attach with wood glue and brad nails if you have a nailgun.
Now it’s time to add the supports. Cut three 2X4’s at 59in long. Make two pocket holes to each end as shown in the picture. If this is your first time using a kreg jig, check out this video.
Attach the supporting boards as shown in the picture. I came in a couple inches from the back and attached them there. The third board will go where the pink line is. Just line it up with the 2X4 in the center of the legs.
All you need now is the top! There’s a few options for the top. You can continue to plank it OR use a flat surface such as plywood. I wanted a flat smooth writing surface so I chose to go with 1/2in thick plywood. If you have your measurements, Home Depot can cut the plywood for you. I had mine cut so that there was about a 3in over hang. If you want to avoid splintering, I would take some blue painters tape with you and have them tape it off before they cut it. You will get a smooth cut that way and it won’t splinter the plywood.
Plywood comes with an unfinished edge. But I used a product that I’ve never used before and now I’m a HUGE fan. See below!
This stuff is life changing. How come I never knew about this?! It’s veneer, which is a real wood product, that you literally iron onto the edge of your plywood. It gives it a nice polished look. AND you can stain it! Woot Woot! Click here for the link!
Choose a side of your board to start on. Measure the length by running the strip of veneer down the side. Cut the veneer strip with about an inch extra. Set your iron to a cotton setting. Line up the strip of veneer so that its flush with one side of the plywood. Slowly start ironing on the veneer. Work your way down the plywood. The heat from the iron will activate the adhesive in the strip, securing it to the side of your board.
Allow to completely cool and then take a knife and cut off the extra. I helps if you flip the board down on the ground for this step.
Take some course sandpaper and sand off any edges that stick out from the corners. Complete this process for all four sides of your board. To smooth the edges even more, I used my palm sander with a fine grit sandpaper and sanded all the sides and the top of the desktop.
You’re ready for stain! I chose Varathane’s Briarsmoke stain. This was my first time using this stain and I LOVED it. It might top the charts as my favorite. It gives a more opaque coverage than other stains I’ve used in the past. I attached the top of my desk with wood glue and then put sand bags over the top to hold it down until the glue was dry. Then I added 3 coats of my new favorite Polyurethane (see link in supply list above)!
After you seal it, YOU’RE FINISHED! Cheers! Now you need to go to Home Goods and find some fun office decor 😉
For all the details on my office makeover, including all the decor-CLICK HERE!